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A Day & Night
Each month we visit a location in Cornwall and choose a place to stay for an overnight break ...
This month we visit Falmouth
A Festive Day and Night Out in…Falmouth
Like many Cornish destinations, Falmouth is teeming with tourists in the spring and summer months, but the visitor traffic peters out considerably when December arrives...
The festive season often comes laden with a ready supply of relentless cold winds that whip in off the sea at Events Square and drive up the main street, speeding pedestrians along or blowing them into the town’s many shops and cosy coffee havens. Of course, December also treats us to beautiful, crisp, sunny days when the icy waters of the Carrick Roads sparkle and the Flushing ferry ploughs its way through the early morning mist.
Falmouth is a town for all seasons. It may grow quieter in the winter months as it is eagerly reclaimed by residents, but it never dies, retaining a gentle buzz thanks in part to its colourful student population. The numerous pubs, restaurants, cafes and shops remain open (apart from for those who have ‘popped out for five minutes’ here and there) and there are a number of new faces on the scene…
The boutique Townhouse hotel and bar, opposite Events Square, has recently welcomed new management in the form of Chris and Rachel, who will be there to welcome you with mulled wine, mulled cider, seasonal cocktails and of course an open fire this month. In Events Square itself, Oscars bar and restaurant opened in June and is already famed for its cocktail menu, while further along in Arwenack Street, the restaurant that was formerly Bodenes is now Samphire, with an impressively local menu that includes wild native oysters, duck breast and crab spring rolls, all Cornish of course. Skip down Upton Slip towards the water and you will find a relatively new kid on the block, The Wheel House, a hugely popular rustic seafood shack with a fairly simple - but excellent - menu for diners seeking an unadulterated seafood hit.
At the other end of town, in the often forgotten Old High Street, is Oliver’s. Opened to great acclaim last summer, this compact restaurant has been overwhelmed by returning diners since day one, and has an excellent reputation. Owner, Ken has been a chef for 30 years and has a CV that includes the Dorchester in Mayfair, where he ran the banqueting kitchens and even worked with Gordon Ramsey.
For coffee and cake you are also spoilt for choice. Head just out of town to the wonderful Provedore, tucked away by the Bowling Green on the top of Trelawney Road. It is like walking into a tiny Spanish - or even French - café, with its stripped wooden floorboards, dark wood shelves lined with red wine and Pernod, and of course, wonderful coffee and cake. Provedore also opens for lunch – try the house special Spanish tortilla – and is open for tapas on Thursday and Friday evenings.
Another real find is Pea Souk, tucked away up Well Lane and often only spotted thanks to the branded vintage bicycle parked at the end of the alley. Pea Souk is a tiny, bohemian vegetarian cafe with a globally inspired menu that will draw you in from the other end of town with its wonderful aromas of Moroccan, Indian, Middle Eastern and Mediterranean foods. It is tiny and you have to get there early to find a seat, but even if you have to wait it is worth a little hanging around. You can also tuck into breakfast all day here – from Marmite on toast to the full veggie works – or book ahead for evening meals. Or you can just pop in for a coffee.
For tea lovers, the Essence of Tea appeared in Church Street this spring, courtesy of David and Kathy, who met while in China where they spent their time travelling to tea mountains and tasting and producing teas. Pop in to tap into their knowledge and sample their exotic array, from aged oolong to puerh.
If it’s something more potent you’re after, head upstairs at Nancy’s to the spanking new Rum Bar, brainchild of former Falmouth Tap Room owner, Kelly. Here you can sample a whole range of exotic rums, while a DJ spins some tunes at the weekend. It is a welcome variation on the town’s more traditional pubs, such as the enduringly popular Chainlocker on Lower Quay Hill, and the excellent Mason’s Arms in Killigrew Street, which is arguably the best destination for watching sport in Falmouth. Affable owner, Simon, might even treat you to a few of his choice jokes to go with your pint…
HOT FESTIVE THINGS TO DO
For festive treats this month, Falmouth will be open for business on Thursday evenings throughout December, when street entertainment will also be laid on, from stilt walking to mime performers and even a traditional fairground organ… The town lights will be illuminated on Thursday 2nd, with a green theme that will see a 50,000 LED bulb canopy and a 40ft tree. There will also be a children’s parade and community carol singing on the evening of the 2nd, while on the 16th there will be a lively Christmas parade from the Old High Street to Events Square.
Don’t forget to pop up to Old Brewery Yard in the Old High Street during late night shopping, when Café Cinnamon will be serving hot drinks, and neighbouring Hand bar will also offer some welcome respite from retail fatigue.
Make sure you also take time to call in at The Poly, a Falmouth institution which has recently been revived thanks to the support received following a summer campaign. The film programme began again in October this year, showing all manner of art-house and world cinema films every Monday and Tuesday, while a new monthly comedy night has also been launched every Thursday. December will see Puppetcraft present 'The Mousehole Cat' (18th Dec.), and Near-ta Theatre present 'Christmas Time' (23rd Dec.) – a great one for the kids, with matinee and evening sessions showing. The Poly is aiming to reach 2000 members in the next year to safeguard its future, and has garnered 500 so far…
Last but by no means least is Princess Pavilion found on Melville Road who host excellent shows, concerts and other events throughout the year. One to watch out for in December is Beauty and the Beast From Mars presented by Miracle Theatre. This is a traditional family pantomime with out of this world extras. Oh yes it is!
